Phagwah (Holi)

Phagwah: The Festival of Colours and Unity in Guyana

Phagwah, known internationally as Holi, represents one of the most vibrant, energetic, and culturally significant celebrations in the Cooperative Republic of Guyana. While its roots are deeply embedded in Hindu theology and the traditions brought by Indian indentured labourers in the 19th century, the festival has evolved into a uniquely Guyanese phenomenon. It is a day when the rigid barriers of social hierarchy, ethnicity, and religion dissolve under a shower of "abeer" (purple powder) and water. In the streets of Georgetown, Berbice, and Essequibo, the air fills with the scents of spicy snacks and the rhythmic clashing of cymbals, creating an atmosphere of pure, unadulterated joy.

What makes Phagwah truly special in the Guyanese context is its inclusive nature. It is not merely a "Hindu holiday"; it is a national celebration of renewal and the triumph of righteousness. It marks the end of the cool season and the vibrant arrival of spring, symbolizing a time for forgiveness, the repair of broken relationships, and the celebration of life’s diversity. Whether you are in a rural village or the bustling capital, the sight of people from all walks of life—Afro-Guyanese, Indo-Guyanese, Indigenous peoples, and others—covered in a kaleidoscope of colours is a powerful testament to the nation's motto: "One People, One Nation, One Destiny."

The essence of the day is found in the laughter that echoes through the neighbourhoods. For many Guyanese, Phagwah is the highlight of the cultural calendar, a time when the "spirit of togetherness" is tangible. It is a day of liberation where the "small man" and the "big man" play together as equals. The festival serves as a reminder that despite our differences, we all share the same human capacity for joy, hope, and the desire for a fresh start.

When is Phagwah in 2026?

The date for Phagwah is determined by the Hindu lunisolar calendar, specifically falling on the Purnima (full moon) of the month of Phalguna. Because it follows the lunar cycle, the date changes every year on the Gregorian calendar.

For the upcoming celebration:

• Day of the week: Tuesday
• Date: March 3, 2026
• Countdown: There are 59 days remaining until the festivities begin.

Because the festival is tied to the full moon, it usually occurs in late February or March. This timing coincides perfectly with Guyana's tropical climate, providing a sunny backdrop for the water-based celebrations that are central to the holiday's traditions.

The History and Origins of Phagwah in Guyana

The story of Phagwah in Guyana began in 1838, when the first ships carrying Indian indentured labourers arrived on the shores of the colony then known as British Guiana. These ancestors brought with them their sacred texts, their music, and their festivals. Over the decades, Phagwah survived the hardships of the plantation system, serving as a source of cultural identity and spiritual resilience for the Indian community.

The Legend of Prahlad

The religious foundation of Phagwah is the narrative of Prahlad and his father, the tyrannical King Hiranyakashipu. According to Hindu scripture, the King believed himself to be a god and demanded that everyone worship him. However, his young son, Prahlad, remained a devoted follower of Lord Vishnu (the Supreme Being).

Infuriated by this defiance, the King attempted to kill his son multiple times but failed due to Vishnu's protection. Finally, the King’s sister, Holika, who was supposedly immune to fire, sat in a bonfire with Prahlad on her lap to burn him alive. Through divine intervention, Holika was consumed by the flames while Prahlad emerged unharmed. This event is the source of the name "Holi" and the "Holika Dahan" (the burning of the bonfire). For Guyanese, this story is a potent metaphor: it teaches that power should be used for the benefit of the people, and that those who use power for self-aggrandizement and tyranny will eventually face justice.

The Spring Connection

Beyond the religious narrative, Phagwah is a harvest festival. In India, it marks the arrival of spring. In Guyana, while we do not have four distinct seasons, the festival still carries the theme of agricultural renewal and the celebration of the earth’s fertility. It is a time when the landscape is lush, and the "spring" energy is channeled into the vibrant colours used during the play.

How People Celebrate: Traditions and Customs

The celebration of Phagwah in Guyana is a multi-sensory experience that spans several weeks, culminating in a massive national explosion of colour.

The Forty-Day Lead-Up: Chowtal Singing

The festivities do not start on the day of the holiday itself. Approximately 40 days prior, "pre-Phagwah" activities begin. This period is characterized by the singing of "Chowtals"—a fast-paced, rhythmic style of folk music involving two groups of singers facing each other, accompanied by the "dholak" (drum) and "jhal" (cymbals). These songs often tell stories of the Hindu deities Krishna and Rama and are performed at temples (mandirs) and community centres across the country.

Holika Dahan (The Bonfire)

On the eve of Phagwah, communities gather for the "Holika Dahan." A pyre is built, often with a symbolic pole in the centre representing Prahlad. After prayers are offered, the bonfire is lit to symbolize the destruction of evil and the purification of the soul. People often take a bit of the ash home, as it is considered auspicious.

The Day of Play: Abeer and Water

When the sun rises on March 3, 2026, the transformation begins. The primary tradition is the "playing" of Phagwah. Participants use:

• Abeer: A brightly coloured powder (traditionally purple, but now available in every neon shade imaginable).
• Abrak: A shimmering, metallic powder that adds sparkle to the festivities.
• Coloured Water: Often mixed in buckets or "squirt guns," used to drench friends and strangers alike.

The colours are deeply symbolic. Red represents love and fertility; blue is the colour of Lord Krishna; yellow represents turmeric and healing; and green symbolizes new beginnings. In Guyana, it is common to see "Phagwah water-trucks" or makeshift sprinklers in villages where children wait to soak anyone passing by.

Music and Dance

Throughout the day, the sound of "Soca-Chowtal" or traditional Indian film music fills the air. Large-scale concerts, known as "Phagwah Melas," are held at venues like the Guyana National Stadium or the Everest Cricket Club ground. These events feature local and international artists, dance troupes, and massive "powder parties."

Traditional Foods and Delicacies

No Guyanese holiday is complete without a feast, and Phagwah is no exception. Because it is a religious holiday for many, the food served on the day itself is typically vegetarian.

1. Sweetmeats: Families prepare a variety of sweets, including Gulgula (sweet fried dough balls), Kurma (crunchy ginger-spiced dough strips), Vermicelli (a sweet milk-based pudding), and Peda (milk fudge).
2. Savory Snacks: Bara (fried lentil cakes) and Pholourie (split pea fritters) served with spicy mango or tamarind chutney are staples.
3. The Main Meal: A typical Phagwah lunch might include "seven curry"—a traditional meal served on a water lily leaf consisting of seven different types of vegetarian curries (such as pumpkin, mango, katahar, and channa) served with hot rice or puri.

Sharing food is a central part of the tradition. It is customary to visit the homes of neighbours and friends, regardless of their background, to share a plate of sweets.

Practical Information for Visitors

If you are planning to visit Guyana during 2026, Phagwah is perhaps the most welcoming time to arrive. Here is what you need to know:

What to Wear

• Wear White: Most people wear old white t-shirts. This provides the best canvas for the coloured powders.
• Disposable Clothing: Do not wear anything you value. The dyes used in abeer can be very stubborn and will likely stain your clothes permanently.
• Protect Your Skin and Hair: Many locals apply a thin layer of coconut oil to their skin and hair before going out. This prevents the dye from soaking in and makes it much easier to wash off later.

Safety and Etiquette

• Consent: While the atmosphere is playful, it is generally expected that you don't drench someone who is clearly dressed for work or who is avoiding the fray. However, if you are out in the streets in casual clothes, you are considered "fair game."
• Protect Your Tech: Keep your phones and cameras in waterproof bags or "Ziplocs." The combination of fine powder and water is notorious for ruining electronics.
• Transportation: Be prepared for traffic delays, especially in residential areas where "roadblocks" of children with water buckets are common.

Where to Go

• Georgetown: For large-scale events and high-energy "Melas."
• The East Coast and Berbice: To experience the more traditional, community-focused celebrations where mandirs lead the festivities.

Is Phagwah a Public Holiday?

Yes, Phagwah is a recognized National Public Holiday in Guyana.

• Employment: Government offices, banks, and most private businesses are closed on March 3, 2026. Employees in the public sector generally have the day off.
• Commerce: While major supermarkets and malls might close or have shortened hours, small "bottom-house" shops in the villages often remain open to cater to the revellers.
• Public Services: Essential services (hospitals, police, fire) remain operational, but public transportation (minibuses) may be less frequent as many drivers take the day off to celebrate with their families.

The designation of Phagwah as a public holiday is a reflection of Guyana's commitment to multiculturalism. It allows the entire nation to pause and participate in a festival that promotes harmony and social cohesion.

Conclusion

Phagwah in Guyana is more than just a religious observance; it is a vivid expression of the Guyanese spirit. It is a time when the "Land of Many Waters" becomes a land of many colours. In 2026, as the "abeer" clears and the water dries, the message remains the same: that light will always overcome darkness, and that unity is our greatest strength. Whether you are a local or a visitor, participating in Phagwah is an invitation to shed your inhibitions, embrace your neighbour, and celebrate the beautiful, messy, and colourful journey of life.